Ethics is the Foundation of Good Design
As a jewelry designer and jewelry activist, I believe that ethics in the fine jewelry industry shouldn't be viewed as a trend or a marketing angle; it should be the foundation for good design. For me, it’s the basis and ethos of my work. Behind each gemstone and ounce of gold is a story about how that material is mined and how it supports the community it’s from. I believe that story should be one of respect for the environment, the communities that mine these materials, and ultimately the people who wear the precious work jewelers bring to life. The jewelry industry as a whole hasn’t done enough and should do much more to acknowledge environmental and labor practices in the mining sector. As makers and brands, this responsibility has mostly been left to a small group of rebellious jewelry activists to create transparency around the materials we use.
Simply put: The creation of jewelry should never come at the expense of human dignity or environmental well-being.
Why Transparency Matters
The jewelry and mining industries in many cases have failed to commit to ethical and traceable sourcing. Companies cite cost and complexity as reasons that provenance can’t be tracked 100%. These are not acceptable reasons.
If the Kimberley Process tracks the origin of diamonds to ensure they come from non-conflict areas, then why break up those parcels and lose their origin once they are pooled together at cutting houses? In many cases, the aerospace industry can trace every nut and bolt; there is no reason why the diamond industry can’t maintain the provenance of its stones.
Supporting and partnering with companies that are trying to do better is a journey filled with trial and error. The industry has taken some steps toward better accountability, but it has a long road ahead and I strongly believe their efforts must go further.
A “Band of Renegades” Working for Change
This effort is being made mostly by a small band of renegade jewelers, suppliers and professionals who care deeply about responsibility. I believe that making jewelry for people at the most important times of their lives, creating talismans that get passed down through a family's history, is a great responsibility. Being sure these pieces are made from responsible sources should be a natural conclusion, right?
The responsibility for being part of the “solution” has been laid at the feet of the maker. Aligning yourself with groups sharing the same commitment is part of this journey. One of these important groups is the Community for Ethical Jewelry (CEJ), formally known as Ethical Metalsmiths, where I’ve served on the Board of Directors for 14 years. I proudly describe this group as a “band of renegades.” They’re a community composed of jewelry designers, suppliers, educators, students and advocates determined to challenge the established industry norms and push for better standards and ethical supply lines. CEJ’s mission is to inspire “responsible jewelry practices through education, connection, and action.” As declared on its website, they envision … “a jewelry industry where a beautiful product does not bear a human or environmental toll.” This is at the core of my beliefs.
Supporting Diamond Companies and Nurturing the Story
Supporting and partnering with companies that are trying to do better is filled with trial and error. These partnerships help pave a way forward for all. Adoption and truly understanding certification is still in its infancy in the jewelry sector, so these partnerships are important to nurture.
Rio Tinto, one of the largest diamond mining companies committed to transparency, launched “Diamonds With A Story,” highlighting diamonds from a single mine in Australia, the Argyle Mine. When I was asked to partner in promoting this idea, I jumped at the chance. Working with such a powerful company shows the importance of traceability not only to the designer, but also to the end consumer. These opportunities help create a model for responsible diamond sourcing and traceability while the industry works toward a fully transparent system.
Ethical Mining and Women in the Supply Chain for Colored Stones
I make it my practice to actively seek out companies to partner with who prioritize ethical practices at the source. If you’re doing things outside the box with consciousness, you discover amazing people and wonderful things happening in the world.
Among the suppliers I trust and respect most is ANZA Gems, a company deeply committed to supporting women throughout the journey of their gemstones. Through the Moyo Gems collaboration, ANZA works predominantly with women miners in East Africa and supports mine-to-market traceability. Not only does ANZA help women achieve greater economic independence, but it also ensures these miners receive the education, resources, and fair compensation they need to thrive. Beyond mining, ANZA also collaborates with women artisans across its supply chain—including gem faceters and jewelry designers—and funds initiatives within mining communities that support women and their allies in meaningful ways, a mission I proudly support.
Responsible Metals and Sustainable Partnerships
Responsible sourcing also applies to precious metals, whether gold is newly mined or sustainably refined. Working in recycled gold was a conscious choice. Since I run a production studio, I need to ensure that I can meet the volume of material I produce. I have chosen to work with the largest recycling company in the world, Umicore. They are known for their leadership in recycled precious metals and sustainable refining practices, recovering precious metals through certified industrial and e-waste recycling operations. Ranked on the Global 100’s Most Sustainable Companies Index, their operation is governed by a rigorous tracking infrastructure. Umicore’s gold guarantees that for every ounce of gold they produce, an exact chemical equivalent has been diverted from waste streams and reinjected into the global circular economy.
A Vision for the Future of Jewelry
I believe jewelry must represent more than beauty. When a designer crafts work with care and intention, it embodies respect, fairness, and accountability. If you source your materials thoughtfully and seek out partnerships that challenge the status quo, ethical jewelry becomes a natural extension of your values. My goal as a jewelry designer and advocate is to help make that the new normal for the industry.
Interested in joining the Community for Ethical Jewelry? Click here: https://ethicaljewelry.org/membership
For more on my commitment to ethics and sustainability, click here: https://www.dawes-design.com/pages/sustainably-beautiful
Frequently Asked Questions
What is ethical fine jewelry?
Ethical fine jewelry is jewelry made using responsibly sourced gemstones and metals that are traceable, mined with fair labor practices, and extracted with minimal environmental impact.
What is the Kimberley Process and why does it matter?
The Kimberley Process is an international certification scheme designed to prevent conflict diamonds from entering the mainstream market by tracking a diamond's country of origin. Critics note it falls short once diamonds are pooled at cutting houses and lose their provenance.
What is recycled gold jewelry?
Recycled gold jewelry is made using gold recovered from industrial waste, e-waste, or previously refined materials rather than newly mined gold. It reduces environmental impact by diverting precious metals from landfills and reintroducing them into the supply chain.
What is the Community for Ethical Jewelry (CEJ)?
The Community for Ethical Jewelry (formerly Ethical Metalsmiths) is an organization of jewelry designers, suppliers, educators, and advocates committed to promoting responsible sourcing, ethical supply chains, and greater industry transparency.
What is mine-to-market traceability in gemstones?
Mine-to-market traceability means a gemstone's origin and chain of custody can be tracked from the point of mining all the way to the final consumer, ensuring ethical handling at every step of the supply chain.
How is Jennifer Dawes committed to ethical jewelry sourcing?
Jennifer Dawes works exclusively with recycled gold through Umicore, partners with traceable diamond suppliers, supports women miners in East Africa through ANZA Gems, and has served on the Board of Directors of the Community for Ethical Jewelry for 14 years.
Why does provenance matter when buying fine jewelry?
Knowing where your gemstones and metals come from ensures they were not mined under exploitative labor conditions or in ways that cause environmental harm, giving buyers confidence that their purchase aligns with their values.